33. Rusty Old Motor

spent the morning pulling off the shroud, radiator, and frint braxkets. Water pump bolts removed without any breaking off in the block, which was pretty fortunate. Lot of corrosion due to installer not using anti seize bolts. More fun!

31. New Top End

I ran across this locally on CL and the price was right, so I picked up the upper and lower intake with fuel rails and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I have a set of 24 pound injectors which will work nicely. Should rip once I get it all bolted up

Edelbrock 3820 and 3822 with Aeromotive regulator

New Valve Covers

Current stock 5.0 HO intake/setup (as it currently sits)

30. Front End Suspension

The existing front end was pretty rough, so I sent out an extra set of A Arms to get new bushings and ball joints pressed in locally, while I took apart the front end.

There was a lot of rust and debris both in the A Arms and shock tower pockets, so the replacements will work well and the rust areas will get a solid dose of POR 15 to stop the rust from getting any worse. No structural concerns.

The new stuff

The old stuff

Online Resources

Mustang FRONT SPRING REMOVAL

1. Jack up your car and support it with jack stands
2. Remove the front wheels
3. Remove the Sway Bar Endlink nuts and rotate the sway bar out of the way
4. Remove the brake caliper bolts
5. Slide the caliper off the rotor
6. Remove the brake rotor from the hub
7. Take off the ABS retainer nut, remove the bolt and ABS sensor
8. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack
9. Remove the strut nuts and bolts
10. Free the spindle from the strut
11. Lower the jack to allow the control arm to hang free

1. Now you can remove the front Spring
2. Install new urethane spring isolators on your new springs
3. Install the new spring into the “saddle” on the control arm (pry bar is handy tool)
4. Use the jack to raise the control arm
5. Install the Caster Camber Plates (highly recommended)

• Remove the upper strut nut
• Remove the front strut
• Use a drill to remove the rivets from the factory camber plate
• Install the bolt plate with the notch facing forward (on underside)
• Drill holes for engine compartment support brace
• Install the bearing plate (follow instructions for proper slot alignment)
• Install retaining nuts
• Reinstall your strut - Now is a good time to replace them if needed
• Install spacer stacks according to included instructions
• Slide the strut shaft through the caster camber plate and tighten the nut

1. Slide strut into the spindle and reinstall the strut hardware
2. Reassemble the ABS and Brake hardware
3. Reattach the Sway bar
4. Repeat on other side

REAR SPRING INSTALLATION

1. Lift the rear end of the car off the ground
2. Remove the wheel
3. Support with jack stands
4. Remove the rear lower shock bolt
5. Apply some downward pressure to the rear end to remove the rear springs
6. Install new urethane spring Isolators (recommended)
7. Install the new spring with the pigtail facing rearward
8. Reinstall shock hardware
9. Install the wheel & repeat on other side

Prothane Front Control Arm Bushings Installation

Learned this online:

Poly can be used in the front control arms with minimal increase in harshness and without any squeaking. The key is in the installation. Front poly bushings can induce a lot of harshness because of their design (at least the design of Energy Suspension bushings). The sleeves of the Energy Suspension front control arm bushing are shorter than the bushings. If you install the front bushings as they come, the k-member clamps down on the faces of the bushing when the bolt is tightened. Because the mass of the bushing has to go somewhere, it attempts to expand in the shell. (See Figs. 1 and 2)  

The ends of the bushing are now clamped against the k-member and the perimeter of the bushing is pre-loaded in the shell. As a results, the control arm/bushing can't pivot or flex as needed. This is where the majority of complaints of queaks and harshness comes from with poly bushings in the front control arms.

The key to minimizing harshness and elimintating squeaking is to trim the end of the bushings so that the k-member clamps on the sleeve and not the face of each bushing. The end without the flange is the one that is trimmed. I use a hacksaw to trim them. By trimming the bushing, a clearance is provided between the bushing and the k-member (See Fig. 3).

The flange of the front and rear bushings keeps the front arms from moving front-to-rear relative to the k-member. The control arm cannot shift forward because of the flange of the front bushing and it cannot move rearward because of the flange of the rear bushing.  

The result of this install technique is no squeaking and a ride that's nearly as smooth as with rubber bushings. I've used this install techique on SVO Mustangs, Fox-Body Mustangs and SN-95 Mustangs with excellent results.

Give it a try! You'll like the results

​

29. New Rims

I sourced a set of Snyper ROH 16x8 4 lug rims locally, and had them stripped and powder coated locally and they look fantastic. Advanced Powdercoating always does good work. 

I just don't have the time or initiative to convert everything over to 5 lug and get access to more rim styles when I already have a set of rims which are extremely light and will look nice with a 2" drop. 

Stock 16x7 rims ran a 225/55/16 which was an OD of 25.7". An 8" should have at least a 245 on it, maybe 255.

Looking at 245/45R16 up front and either 245 or 255/45R16 in back. 225 too narrow. I saw online someone posted their target caster camber specs for a lowered 5.0 so added it to my blog as a reminder for when I get everything back together.

28. New Parts

All sorts of new parts

27. Refresh Part Two

Round 2 of the "dump car" has begun.

It ran ran really well with a 92 roller motor T5 and manual steering, however the previous owner had stripped it and left it in pieces. I repaired all the rusty floor pans about 5 or 6 years ago and put it back together structurally, but three kids and a career forced me to park it for awhile. 

Over the years I have accumulated all sorts of parts for it, including 2" drop eibach springs, MM bumpsteer kit, explorer upper and lower with 65 mm TB, 93 cobra k member and spindles, upper/lower control arms, etc. 

The brakes were spongy, so new calipers, rotors, master cyl, booster and stainless lines going on all around this winter and a nice set of 06 Mustang seats for the interior. Needless to say, its been sitting too long in my garage so just about everything is being gone through and either replaced or upgraded.

Summary

1986 Mustang GT 

---

Last year of the 4 eyed style front end before the aero nose of 87-93. Was purchased in pieces and built from floors up. Sound deadener and a fresh grey and black interior, solid drivetrain, and new Kumho tires on 16” Pony rims. Starts on the first turn of the key, does not leak oil or smoke. 91 roller motor with nice lopey idle, has not been converted to Mass Air. (stock SD system) Prior owner may have installed an upgraded cam.

Interior
Raam Mat Sound Deadening covered with Foil Faced Automotive Batting and new Black Carpet

Second Skin Sound Deadener and Foil Insulation installed on Firewall and Roof

Aftermarket Rally Seats with Console Delete
New Headliner
Dark Grey OEM Dash Pad
Power Windows (both are working)
Converted to Manual Steering – New Steering Rack
New Windshield

New Dew Wipes on the outside of the windows

Tilt Wheel with Functioning Cruise Control
AM/FM CD Stereo

Weight Reduction:

Entire Heating and AC System removed

Back Seats removed and Hatch Carpeted, including aluminum panel over spare tire area

Smog System Deleted

Exterior:
Could use fresh paint but currently painted a metallic gunmetal grey.
16” Pony Wheels painted flat black

Kumho 255/50/R16 Tires with a lot of tread

POR-15 underneath on the floor pans and chassis

DriveTrain:
91 5.0 Roller Long Block which starts right up on first turn

Fuel Injected (I went through the entire system)

Stock hood insulation
T-5 Transmission with Hurst Shifter

Aftermarket clutch quadrant and adjustable clutch cable
MAC Shorty Headers

Flowmaster Exhaust system with H pipe and Rear Dumps

87-93 Front Disc Brake conversion with larger rotors and calipers

Rear axle has fresh fluid and friction modifier, new brake shoes (4 lug) and shocks

 
Misc:

Had a new fuel tank and fuel pump installed by prior owner, I installed a new fuel gasket on the filler neck. 87-93 GT sway bar added. New fuel pump relay, fuel filter, hoses and coolant, battery cables, U Joints.

Sold privately as is, with no warranties or guarantees. Make me an offer.

Entry 26: Axle Swap

Eliminated all the vibration from the driveline by replacing the axle bearings and the u-jonts, however when re-installing the driveshaft on the lift the pinion flange had endplay in it (could move pinion flange around by hand between 1/8" and 1/16"). Not a significant amount but it was definitely noticeable. Took the 86 out for a drive and immediately felt/heard clunking from the axle whenever I let off the accelerator and over 45 mph. With all the vibration before I didn't notice the thunking. Something is clearly not right, after investigating learned I needed either a rebuild or a fresh axle. Could not re-use the gears because the ring wear pattern is now uneven from the floating pinon and would generate a whine, picked up a used 8.8 axle for $225. 

 

Spent 8 hours over two days this weekend pulling out the old axle, stripping it and installing the replacement one. Found it easier to unbolt the lower control arms and upper control arms at the axle, which made the swap fairly straightforward. Swapped the following over: parking brake cables, differential cover with the fill plug brazed in, full drum brake assembly with new master wheel cylinders, and brake rotors. While I had the axle out I replaced the worn shocks with a new set of Monroe Sensatrac's.

 

 

 

Swapping Axles

Old 8.8

 

Entry 25: New U Joints

Pulled off the driveshaft in search of the continuing vibration, after swapping out the axle bearings it is significantly reduced but still present. Stopped at NAPA and picked up 2 heavy duty Precision 280 U-Joints to install. Pinion flange requires a 12 point 12 mm wrench to remove the four driveshaft bolts. Used the "big socket, little socket" trick to remove the caps and a bench vise to press the new ones in. Re-installed the driveshaft (don't forget the loctite on the flange bolts) and fired it up. Significant improvement in performance and reduction in vibration.

Entry 24: Axle Bearings

I had forgotten how nothing stinks like gear oil!!!

Took the 86 out for its first drive last week since its "rebirth" and heard a disturbing rumbling noise from the rear. The faster I went the worse it got. When took it up to 50 and put it in nuetral it made no difference, the sound remained. My thoughts were, "all that work and its still not right."

Pulled the tires off and was able to move the axle shafts around, way too much endplay. Very noticeable. Assumed it was the bearings so I put it up on the jack stands, opened the pumpkin, dropped the crosspiece and C Clips and pulled the axles out.

As suspected the outer axle bearings were shot and grooved/scored the axle shafts to the point that I could feel the ridge with my nail. Had read somewhere online axle savers were available to use so purchased a pair of #RP5707's at Advance. Its a cool part, combines the axle seal and the bearing into one unit you just press in and it pushes out where the bearings contact the axle shaft.

 

Rented an axle bearing puller from Advance and used it to yank out the bearings, took all of 5 minutes with the right tools. Can't imagine trying to break those out without it, what a nightmare it must be.

Used a bearings race (disc shaped tool of some sort at the shop) and brass hammer to press the bearings in and loaded everything back up. The passenger side was a bit snug at the outer axle seal causing the axle shaft to need a bit of help to go in but it all went back together. Likely over pressed the bearing a touch but it'll be fine for a weekend driver.
 .
Took it out last night for a long drive to get all the fluids moving around, the car probably hasn't been driven in at least a year so it took a few minutes to get up to temp but everything went well.

Entry 22: Updated Pictures

With all significant repairs are completed I pulled the 86 out of my Dad's shop and washed it, what a difference soap and water makes.....

All the new weatherstripping held up well and the interior is quite comfortable. Need to get a few floormats.

Noticed the paint is a metallic grey in the sunlight, have to wet sand with 1500 grit and buff/polish to really bring out the finish. Couldn't believe how well it ran and looked. When I was washing it I could feel on the sponge the surface is slightly rough and needs a good cut and polish.

Video clip (Quicktime):

(The red item on the drivers seat is plastic I use to protect the interior when I am working on it)

Pictures:

Entry 21: Exhaust Manifolds

I have a set of set of 1½" MAC Performance Unequal length shortie headers left over from another project, all they needed was to be cleaned up and painted. Used a wire wheel to strip off all the old material and coated with two layers of 1200 degree satin paint. The heat will cure them yielding a nice Satin Black color. These always outflow the stockers so it should yield a nice sounding exhaust.

Before:

 

After:

 

Entry 19: Rocker Panel Repair

After searching around for the correct color to match the current finish, finally had a chance to paint the Rocker Panel. When the passenger side floor pan and lower toeboard rotted through, it also obliterated the rocker panel, so when I replaced the floor pans last year I also repaired the rocker.

Back in September I had to create the metal patch for the area. Could not find any repro patches so I had to fabricate a piece up with the MIG and scraps from the pans. Then used Rage Gold filler, block sanded, repeated, skimmed with lightweight filler and final sanded. Gray filler primer followed by Metallic Gunmetal Grey paint. The entire car needs to be sanded with 1500 grit sandpaper and polished out, which will include the final portion of this repair. Plan to re-spray the entire car in the near future, but would ike to drive it for while before taking it apart again!.

July 2010

 

September 2010

 

<-Blocked

Primed ->

December 2010