Fuel System
After finished installing the interior, I went to start the car and it would not start. Great. Engine turned over but would not catch.
Checklist for common failures:
After finished installing the interior, I went to start the car and it would not start. Great. Engine turned over but would not catch.Checklist for common failures:
1. Tripped inertia switch – press reset button
2. Fuel Pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat
3. Clogged fuel filter
4. Failed Fuel Pump
5. Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
6. Fuel pressure regulator failed.
3. Clogged fuel filter
4. Failed Fuel Pump
5. Blown fuse link in wiring harness.
6. Fuel pressure regulator failed.
Started by resetting the inertia switch, not the culprit. Next I checked the relay socket with the old relay installed. 12V on the yellow, but no voltage on the pink wire (out) with key on. I jumped the yellow to the pink on the back of the relay housing and the fuel pump whirred on, confirming a faulty relay. Went down to the Ford dealership and for the sum of $21.53 purchased a genuine Motorcraft relay which should last another 24 years. Got home and it fired right up!
Testing the relay socket (detailed):
1. Look for 12V on the Yellow wire, always hot
2. Turn on Key. Look for 12V on Light Pink wire (out to fuel pump, tests fuel pump) and on the Red/Black wire (switched accessory power, tests intertia switch) Inertia switch should have power on both sides. The Tan wire/Light Green stripe is a switched Ground to the ECM.
3. Drop the fuel tank, look for 12V on Pink wire with key in run and test to ground/black wire and should have <10 ohms.
Cooling System
Had a chance to drain out the old coolant (which was water), replace the upper and lower radiator hoses, and install a horseshoe at the heater core bypass. Taking a length of heater hose and forming a "U" will cause the hose to kink and restrict coolant flow. This is what may have been causing the overheating issue the PO described because right after the heater hose output is the temp sensor. Instead went down to NAPA and part # 11607 was pre formed and fit perfectly. Refilled the system with 50/50 Peak One and idled it up nicely.
Had a chance to drain out the old coolant (which was water), replace the upper and lower radiator hoses, and install a horseshoe at the heater core bypass. Taking a length of heater hose and forming a "U" will cause the hose to kink and restrict coolant flow. This is what may have been causing the overheating issue the PO described because right after the heater hose output is the temp sensor. Instead went down to NAPA and part # 11607 was pre formed and fit perfectly. Refilled the system with 50/50 Peak One and idled it up nicely.
Chasing a wandering idle:
Using the surging idle checklist over at stangnet.com, the most common source of wandering idle is a bad IAC, or idle air bypass valve. A dirty IAB will cause stalling when the engine is cold. First step is to remove the IAC/IAB, and clean with a toothbrush and throtlle body cleaner to remove the carbon buildup. Unfortunately, the original Ford part was beyond repair and this did not resolve it. Bought a replacement (Standard Motor Products# AC21) off of Rockauto for $41 on sale and bolted it on today. We'll see how it runs now, if its not this the next check is vaccuum leaks.
UPDATE: Replaced the IAC and it idles perfectly. Vast improvement, no more wandering idle.
Using the surging idle checklist over at stangnet.com, the most common source of wandering idle is a bad IAC, or idle air bypass valve. A dirty IAB will cause stalling when the engine is cold. First step is to remove the IAC/IAB, and clean with a toothbrush and throtlle body cleaner to remove the carbon buildup. Unfortunately, the original Ford part was beyond repair and this did not resolve it. Bought a replacement (Standard Motor Products# AC21) off of Rockauto for $41 on sale and bolted it on today. We'll see how it runs now, if its not this the next check is vaccuum leaks.
UPDATE: Replaced the IAC and it idles perfectly. Vast improvement, no more wandering idle.
If this had not resolved it, the next step would have been to check the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) which works like a rheostat or variable resistor. A surging or hanging idle in particular is a symptom of a bad TPS. Check the voltage on the TPS, at idle it should be inititally set between 0.6 and 1.0 when the engine is warmed up. WOT should be around 4.25 (check when car is off). Don't forget to reset the computer afterwards so it re-learns the new setting. It will zero out everytime the car is started.
Still have to check the vacuum tree and connections, which can also cause a wandering idle. Starting fluid or oil can be sprayed to easily find a leak, the engine will surge when it is sprayed over the leak. Replace thge PCV valve if needed.
Dirty 10 pin connectors can also be a cause of idling, especially 1,2 and 5.
Poor grounds can also generate idle issues. Verify the main power ground cable from the battery is placed directly against the block and not on top of the bracket. Check to make sure the secondary ground strap is present from the cylinder head to firewall. If you are running a 3G alt it needs to be 4 gauge. Ensure the CPU ground wire under the hood is grounded, a black cylinder 2.5" long x 1.0" diameter with a black wire/light green stripe.
Still have to check the vacuum tree and connections, which can also cause a wandering idle. Starting fluid or oil can be sprayed to easily find a leak, the engine will surge when it is sprayed over the leak. Replace thge PCV valve if needed.
Dirty 10 pin connectors can also be a cause of idling, especially 1,2 and 5.
Poor grounds can also generate idle issues. Verify the main power ground cable from the battery is placed directly against the block and not on top of the bracket. Check to make sure the secondary ground strap is present from the cylinder head to firewall. If you are running a 3G alt it needs to be 4 gauge. Ensure the CPU ground wire under the hood is grounded, a black cylinder 2.5" long x 1.0" diameter with a black wire/light green stripe.
System voltage at idle should be 13.8 to 14.2 Volts.
Timing should be at a minimum of 10 and a nax of 14 (ex- boost or nitrous)
Timing should be at a minimum of 10 and a nax of 14 (ex- boost or nitrous)
Spent last weekend pulling the rear drums apart and realized the parking brake lever was missing from the passenger side and likely causing the brakes to drag and the parking brakes to not function. Bought a set of rear drums complete with backing plates from a guy here locally for $10, scavenged the parts I needed and went to work, Replaced the parking brake cables, the wheel cylinders, brake pads, springs and all hardware. Bolted it all up and started the fronts.
After pulling the 16" ponies off the front I discovered good news and bad news. Bad news was the parts I ordered were not going to fit, having already ordered some replacement parts expecting the stock setup. Good news was the front spindles, rotors and calipers had already been upgraded to the heavier duty 87-93 ones. . This upgrade can run anywhere from $200 to $500 so I am not concerned with the parts I couldn't use.
Learned two easy ways to identify whether the 4 eye had been upgraded to 87-93's:
1. Banjo Bolt connections (79-86 hoses screwed directly into the caliper)
2. Metal Dust Shields (79-86 had plastic)
After pulling the 16" ponies off the front I discovered good news and bad news. Bad news was the parts I ordered were not going to fit, having already ordered some replacement parts expecting the stock setup. Good news was the front spindles, rotors and calipers had already been upgraded to the heavier duty 87-93 ones. . This upgrade can run anywhere from $200 to $500 so I am not concerned with the parts I couldn't use.
Learned two easy ways to identify whether the 4 eye had been upgraded to 87-93's:
1. Banjo Bolt connections (79-86 hoses screwed directly into the caliper)
2. Metal Dust Shields (79-86 had plastic)
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